Fishing the Topwater with Pro-Style Frogs in the Summer
The high summer months bring with them weeds, surface slime and other muck that can severely limit your access to penetrate productive water less than 10 feet deep. More frustrating is the fact that this is exactly where the big fish like to hang out this time of year. Some tackle (such as weedless jigs and spinnerbaits) will penetrate broken vegetation mats with limited success. When it comes to actually working those heavy patches, nothing is more effective or weedless than the pro-style frog swimbait.
Weedless by Design
Pro-style frogs are made by several manufacturers, but all basically share the same design concepts. The bodies are hollow and constructed of soft pliable plastic, rubber or silicone. A dual-pronged hook is threaded through the middle with hooks pointing upward and they are weighted so that they land and stay on their belly. The "legs" consist of a multi-strand skirt that is threaded through two small holes in the butt end of the body which appear to dangle and kick as the frog is fished. The overall design is just about as weedless as a lure can get and you can throw it right into the thickest muck without hang-ups.
Retrieval Techniques
There are basically three techniques when reeling in a frog: wakebaiting, walking, and surface popping. In many cases, you may use all three techniques on a single cast. Finesse the rod similar to shaky worm fishing, giving the lure a subtle little quiver. Most often, you'll want to use a dead-slow retrieve allowing the lure time to send it's signal out in all directions.
Just as important is the pause between the movement. When working skinny water, there are often clear signs you've captured the attention of a predator.
You may see surface ripples, jumping minnows, or weeds moving as they are brushed from underneath. When you see signs of predation, freeze for a couple seconds just as a frog would as if it suddenly felt threatened.
Think Like a Frog
Work the surface and obstructions as if the lure had a mind of it's own. For example, swim the surface through open gaps in the vegetation and pause in the "safety" of the muck. Don't be afraid to pull the frog up on a lilly pad or partially submerged log and stop for a minute or two. Literally, think like a frog. They are going to be skittish, maybe even frantic, in open water where they are vulnerable to attack and then hide in cover. In the wild, frogs will hang out on floating objects for safety, rest, and to eat. I love swimming a frog over gaps in the weeds, then stopping it right on top of a nice fat lilly pad. After a minute or two, tap it a bit to quiver the leaf. Bass will be following underneath and even though they might not be able to see it, they know the frog is still there. After another minute or two, gently pull off the pad and swim again for the next patch of safe cover. Sell it and hold on! Your frog probably isn't going to reach it.
Which Frog to Use?
There are several brands of pro-style frogs available, and each one has subtle differences allowing for some variety in presentation. My personal favorite for all-around use is the Bronzeye Jr. by SPRO® (review). When a frog is called for, it excels in all types of topwater conditions. When poppin' and ploppin', consider the Snag Proof® Pro Tournament Frog or Mann's® Super Frog. These two designs offer a more rounded body shape that sets off a slightly different signal when shaking on the surface. The Bass Pro Shops® Kermy frog is the best value play. Coming in at $2-4 less than the competitors, it offers solid construction and good all around action.
You really can't go wrong in choosing any of these frogs. I prefer darker colors as these will allow for more contrast when bass are gazing from below. Natural colors are ideal for clear water conditions. Just keep in mind, if you have toothy Northern Pike or Bowfin in your area, you better have some steel leaders handy or you'll be buying more.
