When it comes to fishing tackle, no other area offers more variety, color selection, versatility and history than the world of crankbait lures. Some even collect them simply for hobby with rare classics selling for tens of thousands of dollars at auction. When it comes to your tackle box however, you may consider your favorite priceless.
What is a Crankbait?
In the simplest of terms, the crankbait is faux bait traditionally made of balsa wood, and more recently molded plastic and complex polymers. In the beginning they were quite simply small hunks of wood carved, sanded and sometimes painted with a couple hooks attached. Today, crankbaits are not only composed of more durable materials, but are also colored with highly detailed, multi-layered paints, internally weighted for handling, and literally scientifically engineered to cause a fish to strike by instinct alone — a pure, reaction strike.
There are several "sub-categories" of crankbaits which include jerk baits, poppers, rattle shads, stick baits, etc. Most of these refer more to their specialized retrieval technique or modified bodies as referenced by their names, but all fall under the broader category of crankbaits.
The opening of this video from Rapala demonstrates some of these differently types beautifully.
Body Design for Different Zones
Three design features will determine which zone each lure is designed for: body shape; internal buoyancy; and the size and shape of the lip/bill.
Topwater: In this zone, you will find lures that are typically designed to float. There are three primary types: the Popper, the SlimDog, and the Wakebait. All are designed to use motion and the surface vibrations created to generate an irresistible strike trigger.
Midwater: Long, slender crankbaits are typically used in top water to mid-water. Usually shaped to mimic a minnow or other small bait fish, these lures are typically neutral buoyant allowing for suspension in mid water on the stop. They typically have medium round bills allowing for a traditional side to side motion when cranking. Sometimes they are jointed for added action.
Flat, shad body styles are typically used in mid water to deep water and are often lipless. These lures typically have a rattle or other mechanism and has a tight shake on the retrieve. These lures can also be highly effective when vertical jigging throughout all zones.
Deepwater: Arched, slender crankbaits are designed for trolling, deep water zones (typically 20' or more). Their long bill allows this lure to bite down fast and shimmy back and forth at the target zone even at slow speeds. Colors will range from very dark to very bright with generally less detail than upper water column lures. At this depth, contrast is more critical than surface details since less sunlight reaches these depths.
Bottom: Down here you find squat-body crankbaits typically armed with square, reinforced lips designed to bounce off rocks, stumps and other obstructions. These lures have a quick diving design that mimics a bait fish feeding or glancing off the bottom. Often times, these lures are made of balsa wood or have internal cavities allowing the lure to be very buoyant when the line is slack. This allows for "backing out" of tight areas or obstructions.
Retrieval Techniques
From the beginning, crankbaits were designed to be fished like prey, usually a shad, minnow or other food morsel. With most crankbaits, you cannot go wrong with a simple, steady retrieve allowing the bait to create it own natural action.
More advanced techniques which can be (and should be) mastered with a little practice include:
Wakebaiting: Retrieve these floating, round body lures extremely slow and consistent on the surface or just below. The wobble will create a buldging wake that is deadly on calm water or protected coves and acts as a beacon for deeper bass. A steady, consistent retrieve is critical since this technique requires the bass to think about it for a second before striking! Pause, speed-up or otherwise and you probably lost his attention.
Popping: These lures where meant to create commosion on the surface with a deep, cup mouth that creates a splash when slightly jerked during the retrieve. Try these in shallow water and transtions off sandy, rocky points.
Jerkbaiting: This technique takes the suspending minnow design and adds irratic movement rather than a solid, swimming retrieve. This technique works best by allowing for a little slack on the line with the rod tip pointed downward. Yank the slack to jerk the bait and then let it sit a few seconds. Slowly bring up most of the slack line and repeat. Deadly over rocks and basins filled with obstructions.
Vertical Jigging: Traditionally done with spoons or metals and well known for fishing tuna, this technique is possible with most lip-less crankbaits and only off a dock on in a boat. You essentially drop the lure straight down, and give a series of steady rises and falls of the rod tip. The lure will shake up and down in the water column like an injured baitfish. |
